Frivolous at Last - Surtout Jacket by Ensemble Patterns

Ensemble Patterns Surtout Jacket

I made this from Ikea fabric and whenever I wear it I just wanna shout, “START THE CAR!!”

Frivolous at Last - Surtout Jacket by Ensemble PatternsThe pattern is the Surtout coat and jacket from Ensemble Patterns, cropped version. I was intrigued by the large lapels and boxy, cropped shape. (But note that I had a bit of a helluva time working out parts of the instructions. I don’t recommend this pattern for beginners!)Frivolous at Last - Surtout Jacket by Ensemble PatternsI fear this is not the right shape for my personal style, however. As boxy, cropped silhouettes force their way more and more into current fashion (for both tops and bottoms), on one hand I am interested in this new shape but on the other I am starting to realize that it’s maybe too much for my petite frame and personal style preferences. As a devoted reader of Doctor T’s blog, in which she wrote at length about the Kibbe Style types, I believe I am what’s called a ‘dramatic classic’ — a type which looks best in long, clean lines. But who cares when there’s a fabulous new jacket pattern to be tried, amirite???Frivolous at Last - Surtout Jacket by Ensemble PatternsThe fabric is a fairly heavy-weight cotton (canvas, I think), which I purchased from Ikea last year to make the bag below. Since they will only cut in multiples of full meters at Ikea, I got 2 meters and managed to get both the bag and the jacket out of it. But only just barely! It was a masterful bit of Tetris I played with the pattern pieces and I even had to cut a few off-grain.Frivolous at Last - Weekender Sling Bag by DIBYThe fabric is the perfect weight for a jacket but it’s super wrinkle-prone. I’m embracing the wrinkles as part of the look (particularly since I can’t even get some of them out with my iron on full blast).surtout3_back

I know these ready-to-wear pants are the star of the show but MY EYES ARE UP HERE, OKAY???

It has pockets! (Although there were these mystifying ‘pocket facing’ pieces in the pattern that I had no idea what to with — even after carefully scrutinizing the instructions. I ended up just leaving them out and the pockets seem to have turned out just fine. Go figure.) And check out those cool, angled sleeve seams:surtout6Looking at these pictures, I think my hem may be crooked. Oops! And I hadn’t even finished the hems of the sleeves. But I had to take emergency pictures, even without the jacket completely finished or completed pressed, because I was having a good hair day! Pictures, NOW!!!!Frivolous at Last - Surtout Jacket by Ensemble PatternsLook, I did bias-bound seams inside! I was about to remark on how unlike me that is, because it took extra time and effort, but I notice in the picture I didn’t bother binding the edges of the pocket bags for some reason. So no need to panic, that is still SO ME.surtout8

Thanks for stopping by for a read!

— Lori


6 thoughts on “Ensemble Patterns Surtout Jacket

  1. I like the jacket a lot and think it suits you very well despite whatever style you’ve been told you are. And those pants…! Wow! It’s a great ensemble. And the blue is a fabulous colour.


  2. Lori, I love your amusing take on all things sewing and good onya for hauling out the ikea canvas and running up this great jacket. Please don’t stop experimenting, you do after all, look good in anything!


  3. HA! I have that unbound-pocket-bag moment with my own projects too, especially when I use an old bobbin of the wrong color thread to save 5 minutes and then look at the result every time I wear the garment forever. It’s a super cool jacket – I love that sleeve seam and the lapels. I think worn open over a sleek silhouette, it will fit nicely with the long-clean-lines look!


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